Filaments

Each material has unique properties, print requirements, and ideal use cases. Choosing the right filament depends on the desired strength, flexibility, heat/UV resistance, and the printing difficulty you’re prepared to handle. Below we a list of the common materials – PLA, PETG, PC, ASA, ABS, TPU, and Nylon – and compare their characteristics.

Summary

Material	Heat Resistance	UV Resistance	Print Difficulty	Use Cases	Nozzle Temp	Bed Temp	Humidity (%)	Tensile Strength (MPa)	Flexibility / Impact Strength (kJ/m²)
PLA	\(\sim 50–60 °C\)	Poor (degrades in sun)	Easiest	Visual prototypes, toys, cases (not for high heat)	\(190–220 °C\)	\(0–60 °C\)	<50% (drying optional, absorbs slowly)	\(\sim 60 MPa\)	Low
PETG	\(\sim 75 °C\)	Fair (better than PLA, can discolor)	Easy/Medium (stringing)	Functional parts, containers, moderately stressed parts	\(220–250 °C\)	\(60–80 °C\)	<40% (drying recommended)	\(\sim 50 MPa\)	Medium – better XY than PLA
ABS	\(\sim 100 °C\)	Poor (UV causes brittleness)	Hard (needs enclosure, warps)	Durable parts, automotive interior, tool housings	\(230–250 °C\)	\(95–110 °C\)	<50% (drying optional)	\(\sim 35–40 MPa\)	Medium – good in XY, weak in Z
ASA	\(\sim 100 °C\)	Excellent (UV stable)	Hard (enclosure, less warp than ABS)	Outdoor parts, automotive, functional prototypes	\(240–260 °C\)	\(90–110 °C\)	<40-50% (drying optional)	\(\sim 30–45 MPa\)	High – tough, XY > ABS
PC	\(\sim 115–130 °C\)	Moderate (can yellow with UV)	Very Hard (high temp, warps, dry needed)	High-strength parts, high-temp jigs, engineering prototypes	\(260–310 °C\)	\(90–110 °C\)	<20% (drying requried)	\(\sim 70 MPa\)	Very High – extremely tough
Nylon	\(\sim 100 °C\)	Poor–Fair (UV-degrades unless stabilized)	Very Hard (must stay dry, warps)	Gears, hinges, wear parts, high-strength functional parts	\(240–270 °C\)	\(60–90 °C\)	<15% (drying requried)	\(\sim 50 MPa\)	High – tough & ductile
TPU (95A)	\(\sim 60–80 °C\)	Varies (most not UV-stable)	Medium (slow feed, stringy)	Flexible parts: seals, bumpers, phone cases, belts	\(210–240 °C\)	\(30–60 °C\)	<30% (drying recommended)	\(\sim 25 MPa\)	Very High (rubbery, won’t break)

PLA (Polylactic Acid)

PLA is the most popular beginner filament. It’s easy to print and made from corn starch or sugarcane, making it relatively eco-friendly (biodegradable under industrial composting). It prints at low temperatures without needing a heated enclosure. PLA offers high rigidity and tensile strength (around \(50–65MPa\)), so parts can be quite strong in a static sense. However, PLA is brittle and has poor impact resistance – it tends to crack or shatter under shock or flexing. It also has low heat resistance, deforming around \(\sim 60°C\). PLA is not suitable for high-heat or long-term outdoor use: it will soften in a hot car and embrittle with UV exposure.

• Print temp: \(\sim 200°C\) (typically \(190–220°C\)).
• Bed temp: \(\sim 50–60°C\) (some use an unheated bed with tape or glue).
• Difficulty*: Very easy – excellent flow and low warp, PLA is often “plug and play”. Bed adhesion is generally good on textured or glue-coated beds. Watch out for stringing on higher temps or cheap PLA.
• Use cases: Great for prototypes, cosmetic models, toys, and basic household parts. Ideal when you need good dimensional accuracy and a nice surface finish, but not for parts under stress or high temperature.

PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol)

PETG is a popular all-rounder that offers a balance between PLA and ABS. It’s less brittle than PLA and more ductile – PETG parts can flex more before breaking. Tensile strength is comparable to PLA (around 40–55 MPa), but impact strength is slightly better (PETG can absorb a bit more energy before fracturing). PETG has higher heat resistance than PLA (\(\sim 70–80°C\) before softening). It’s also generally hydrophobic and chemically resistant (doesn’t absorb much moisture, and resists acids/alkalis better than PLA).

• Print temp: \(\sim 230°C\) (usually in \(220–250°C\) range).
• Bed temp: \(\sim 70°C\) (\(60–85°C\) range). A heated bed is recommended to prevent warping. PETG can fuse strongly to bare PEI bed sheets, so using a layer of glue stick as a release agent is common.
• Difficulty*: Moderate-Easy. PETG prints with low warp (no enclosure needed) and decent layer adhesion, but it is more stringy than PLA. Print slower and with reduced fan (e.g. 30–50%) to avoid stringing and ensure layer bonding.
• Use cases: Functional parts that need some toughness and heat resistance. PETG is great for mechanical prints, brackets, containers, and outdoor parts that PLA couldn’t handle. It’s often used when PLA is too brittle but ABS is too troublesome – PETG gives good strength without requiring an enclosure.

PC (Polycarbonate)

Polycarbonate is an advanced engineering filament known for its high strength and thermal stability. PC has one of the highest tensile strengths (~70+ MPa) among common filaments and very high impact toughness – PC is the material used in bullet-resistant glass and safety goggles. 3D printed PC parts tend to be extremely tough and heat-resistant (glass transition \(\sim 150°C\), can handle 110°C$+ without deforming). PC is also somewhat flexible before breaking, giving it good impact performance (though in some 3D printing tests, PC impact strength in XY wasn’t as high as expected, possibly due to print conditions).

• Print temp: \(\sim 270°C\) (typically 260–310°C$). PC needs high extrusion temperatures to bond layers. A hardened steel nozzle is recommended for higher temps (and required if using glass/carbon fiber PC blends).
• Bed temp: \(\sim 100°C\) (80–120°C$). An enclosure is strongly recommended – PC warps significantly as it cools. The P1S’s enclosed build chamber will help, but large PC prints may still be challenging. Bed adhesion can be aided by a PC-specific adhesive or using a textured PEI plate.
• Difficulty*: Hard. PC is one of the most difficult materials to print. It warps and delaminates if not kept hot; it also absorbs moisture quickly (dry it before use). Expect trial and error to get good PC prints. The AMS can handle PC filament, but ensure it’s in a dry box to avoid moisture issues.
• Use cases: High-strength, high-heat parts. Use PC for functional prototypes, brackets, RC/drone parts, light-duty engine bay parts, or enclosures that might see temperature or impact that would shatter PLA/ABS. PC is overkill for casual prints, but shines in demanding engineering applications. (Note: PC is not UV-stable on its own – it can yellow or embrittle under UV unless it’s a UV-stabilized blend.)

ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate)

ASA was developed as a UV-resistant alternative to ABS. It has mechanical properties similar to ABS – moderate-high tensile strength (\(\sim 30–45MPa\), similar to ABS) and good impact resistance – but its key advantage is excellent weather resistance. ASA can handle prolonged UV exposure without significant degradation, making it ideal for outdoor parts. In terms of strength, ASA is often slightly tougher than standard ABS (Prusa’s tests showed ASA to be “by far the most tough” among PLA, PETG, and ASA). However, like ABS, ASA’s layer adhesion can be its weak point if printing conditions are poor – impact strength in the Z direction is lower, so enclose and cool slowly for strong parts. ASA’s heat resistance is also high (\(\sim 100°C\), similar to ABS; it can even withstand near-boiling temperatures without losing integrity).

• Print temp: \(\sim 245°C\) (typically 240–260°C$).
• Bed temp: \(\sim 100°C\) (90–110°C$). An enclosure is required for ASA, just as for ABS – it prevents warping and cracking.
• Difficulty*: Moderate-Hard. ASA prints very much like ABS: it can warp and emit fumes (though ASA’s odor is a bit less acrid than ABS). Good bed adhesion (use ABS/ASA slurry or glue stick on PEI) and minimal cooling (often 0–20% fan) are needed to prevent cracks. Expect some trial and error, but ASA is slightly less warpy than ABS in practice (better dimensional stability).
• Use cases: Outdoor and automotive parts. ASA’s UV and weather resistance make it perfect for garden fixtures, outdoor enclosures, automotive trim/clips, drone parts etc. It’s also used for functional prototypes that need strength and durability similar to ABS, with the bonus of surviving sunlight.

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)

ABS is a classic engineering plastic, known for being used in LEGO bricks and many consumer products. It offers good impact resistance and durability – ABS parts can withstand drops and wear better than PLA (ABS is not as brittle). Its tensile strength is around \(30–40 MPa\), a bit lower than PLA’s, but ABS stays much more impact-tough across a range of temperatures. Critically, ABS has a high heat resistance (softening around \(\sim 95–105°C\)), so it won’t deform in a hot car or under load until much higher temps than PLA/PETG. The downsides: ABS is tricky to print (it warps and shrinks when cooling) and produces noxious fumes (styrene odor). It absolutely requires an enclosure and ventilation.

• Print temp: \(\sim 240°C\) (220–250°C$ typical).
• Bed temp: \(\sim 100°C\). A heated bed and chamber are needed to prevent warping. Use an enclosure (the P1S built-in panels help, though it’s not a heated chamber, it retains some heat). Keeping the chamber \(\sim 45°C\) or warmer greatly improves layer adhesion.
• Difficulty*: Hard. ABS can be frustrating: it tends to curl off the bed or crack between layers if cooled too fast. Bed adhesion tricks (ABS juice, Kapton tape, brim) are often needed. Minimal part cooling is recommended (0–20%). The AMS can feed ABS, but ensure the filament isn’t exposed to cool drafts. Also, the fumes mean you should operate in a well-ventilated area or use a filtration system.
• Use cases: Durable functional parts, prototyping, automotive. ABS is chosen for tool housings, machine parts, clips, electrical enclosures – anything that needs to take some abuse and maybe a bit of heat. If you plan to sand, acetone-vapor smooth, or solvent-weld parts, ABS is great (it dissolves in acetone, allowing post-processing). For purely outdoor use, ASA is generally preferred over ABS (due to ASA’s UV resistance), but ABS is fine for indoor functional prints.

TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) – Flexible Filament

TPU is a flexible, rubber-like filament. It comes in different hardness levels (e.g. Shore 95A, 90A, 85A, etc. – lower number = softer). TPU has lower tensile strength (often \(\sim 20–30 MPa\), depending on formulation) but extremely high elongation at break (300–500+%). In other words, it’s not used for rigidity or strength, but for elasticity and impact absorption. TPU parts can bend or stretch dramatically without breaking, giving them effectively very high impact toughness (they don’t shatter, they deform). TPU also has good abrasion resistance and tear strength, especially in higher durometer blends. Heat resistance varies by TPU blend but is typically around 80°C$ (they’ll get soft and rubbery beyond that).

• Print temp: \(\sim 230°C\) (\(210–250°C\) depending on brand/hardness). Softer TPUs (e.g. 85A) might print better a bit cooler/slower to reduce stringing.
• Bed temp: \(\sim 50°C\) (often \(40–60°C\)). Some TPUs print fine on unheated beds, but a bit of warmth helps adhesion.
• Difficulty*: Moderate. TPU can be challenging to feed – it’s soft, so it may buckle in the extruder if print settings aren’t tuned. The Bambu Lab’s direct-drive extruder is a big help (direct-drive handles flexibles better than Bowden setups). To succeed with TPU: print slow (e.g. 30–60 mm/s), with low retraction (2 mm or less) and minimal part cooling (TPU sticks better layer to layer with little fan). Watch for stringing and oozing; you may need to enable coasting or wipe in slicer settings. Once tuned, TPU prints can be very reliable.
• Use cases: Flexible parts: phone cases, drone bumpers, gaskets, seals, vibration dampeners, drive belts, tires (for RC cars), and any application where you need rubber-like properties. TPU’s ability to absorb impact makes it great for protective components. Just remember that soft TPU parts won’t hold heavy loads (they’ll flex). Also, flexible filaments can be used for snug-fit enclosures (like snap-on covers) because they can stretch over a part and then hold it tightly.

Nylon (Polyamide, e.g. PA6, PA12)

Nylon is an engineering-grade filament known for its toughness, flexibility, and wear resistance. It has a wide range of formulations; generally, Nylon’s tensile strength is in the \(40–70 MPa\) range (so it can be quite strong, especially Nylon 6 which can reach the high end). But more impressive is Nylon’s impact strength and fatigue resistance – it can absorb a lot of energy and resist cyclic stress without cracking. Nylon parts are semi-flexible (especially thinner sections), which means they tend to bend rather than snap (one source notes “Nylon will take a lot more abuse than ABS”). Nylon is also self-lubricating and great for low-friction applications (gears, bushings). Its heat resistance is good (\(\sim  ≈100°C\) or more depending on type). Importantly, most Nylon filaments are hygroscopic – they absorb moisture from the air rapidly, which can ruin print quality (wet Nylon pops and foams during printing).

• Print temp: \(\sim 250°C\) (generally \(240–270°C\)). Higher-end nylons (like PA 6) prefer the upper end (\(\sim 260+°C\)).
• Bed temp: \(\sim 70°C\) (\(60–90°C\)). An enclosure is recommended because Nylon can warp (less than ABS, but still). Some nylons (especially PA 6) shrink significantly; others like Nylon 12 warp less. Use bed adhesives (glue or specific sheets) because Nylon doesn’t stick well to bare PEI – Garolite or PA-friendly bed surfaces work best.
• Difficulty: Hard. Nylon demands careful handling: keep it dry (ideally print from a dry box or the AMS with filament dryer). It will warp, though often a bit less violently than ABS. Layer bonding can be excellent if printed hot enough and kept warm, but if your environment is cool the parts may split. Additionally, dimensional accuracy can suffer (Nylon can shrink 1–2% upon cooling). The P1S can print Nylon, especially with the AMS Pro’s humidity control, but be prepared to tweak settings.
• Use cases: Functional mechanical parts needing toughness or low friction. Examples: gears, hinges, bushings, pulley wheels, tool handles, structural brackets. Nylon’s wear resistance makes it great for parts with sliding contact. It’s also a choice for living hinges or snap-fit parts that must flex repeatedly (though Nylon’s flexibility means it’s not as stiff as PLA/ABS, so it’s not for every application). For any load-bearing part in a tough environment (vibration, impacts, moderate heat), Nylon is often a top choice – if you can print it properly.